What PSA, BGS, and CGC Consider "Altered": The Complete List

Any treatment that changes how a card looks from its original printed state will be flagged as altered by PSA, BGS, and CGC. The grading companies use slightly different terminology but the underlying standard is identical, and the financial consequence is the same: 30 to 80 percent of the card's market value, gone permanently.

Most collectors don't realise how broadly "alteration" is defined. This guide covers every category, with the specific examples grading companies look for, so you can avoid the costliest mistake in the hobby.

What gets a card flagged

The grading companies share a list of treatments that automatically trigger the alteration designation. Some are obvious. Most are not.

Chemical cleaning. Any solvent, alcohol, cleaning solution, polish, wax, or oil applied to the card surface. PSA inspects under blacklight and detects residues days, weeks, or years after application. Includes seemingly mild substances like rubbing alcohol, white vinegar diluted in water, and "card-safe" sprays sold online.

Surface gloss changes. Anything that alters the card's original shine. Polishing makes vintage cards look glossier than factory print. Matte coatings make modern holographic cards look duller. Either change is detectable and flagged.

Recolouring or touch-ups. Using pen, marker, paint, or any pigment to fix scratches, whitening, or surface marks. Even a single dot of ink on an edge is automatic AA. Includes attempts to colour-match the card's printed surface.

Trimming. Removing even fractions of a millimetre from any edge. PSA measures cards against factory dimensions and rejects anything outside the tolerance window. This applies to both deliberate trimming and accidental damage from sanding edges.

Holo restoration. Reapplying foil, glitter, or shimmer to scratched holographic areas. Once vintage holo has lifted, it cannot be replaced without leaving signatures the graders catch.

Warping correction with heat or moisture. Bent cards pressed flat using steam, irons, or weighted books often develop micro-warping or surface haze that's catchable under inspection. The card "looks" flat but the structural damage is permanent and detectable.

Re-printing or re-inking text. Touching up faded text, attack damage values, or set symbols. Always flagged.

Re-gluing layers. Some attempts to fix delaminated vintage cards involve adhesive between the layers. Detected through edge inspection and any irregularity in the cardstock thickness.

Adding sealant or protective coating. Even clear coatings designed to "protect" the card are alteration. Anything added to the card surface that wasn't there from the factory is grounds for AA.

The grading companies' specific stances

While all three major graders flag the same treatments, their language and processes differ slightly.

PSA uses the "Authentic Altered" or "AA" designation. The card receives a slab and serial number but no numerical grade. The label is permanent and visible on the slab.

BGS uses "Authentic" with a notation explaining the alteration. Their grading is generally considered the most strict on surface and edge inspection.

CGC uses similar language to PSA, marking altered cards as "Authentic" with notes on the slab. CGC has been the fastest growing of the three in the last few years and has tightened its alteration detection accordingly.

The community shorthand: AA tax. Regardless of which company flags the card, the market price drop is similar.

What is still safely allowed

Not everything is forbidden. These methods are widely accepted as non-altering when done correctly:

Dry microfiber cloth. Removing surface dust, fingerprints, and oils with a clean, dry microfiber cloth. The cloth must be clean, the surface must be clean, and the pressure must be light. No motion patterns that could create texture changes.

Soft brush for dust removal. A clean cosmetic-grade brush or anti-static brush to remove particulates from edges and corners before sleeving. Dry contact only.

Compressed air. Brief use of canned air to dislodge dust from surfaces or corners. Avoid moisture or propellant residue by using purified compressed air designed for electronics.

Penny sleeve and toploader storage. Not cleaning, but the natural next step. A clean card needs protection. Use new, unused sleeves.

Notice the pattern. Everything safe is dry, light contact, no chemicals, no mechanical force beyond gentle dust removal.

The grey zone

Two situations sit between clearly safe and clearly alteration:

Surface edge whitening reduction. Controlled mechanical buffing using specialised tools can reduce surface fibre whitening without removing cardstock or leaving detectable marks. We do this at CardCureSG. The line between "safe" and "AA" depends entirely on technique and tools. DIY attempts almost always cross the line.

Light surface scratch buffing. Very fine scratches on non-holographic areas can sometimes be softened through controlled buffing. The depth of the original scratch determines whether this is safe or whether it requires removing material the grader will detect.

Both grey-zone treatments require expert judgement and the right equipment. They are not DIY projects.

How the grading companies detect alteration

Understanding their inspection process helps explain why DIY treatments get caught so reliably.

PSA's inspection includes:

1. High-magnification surface inspection under multiple lighting angles

2. Blacklight examination to detect chemical residues

3. Dimension measurement against factory specifications

4. Edge inspection at 10x magnification or greater

5. Comparison against reference cards from the same era and print run

What looks invisible to the naked eye is obvious under PSA's lighting and magnification. The "I'll just clean it lightly" approach has been the downfall of countless valuable cards.

The cost of getting it wrong

For a card worth $1,000 raw, the AA tax typically removes 30 to 50 percent of market value, leaving $500 to $700. For vintage holos worth $5,000 or more, the drop is closer to 70 to 80 percent, often leaving $1,000 to $1,500.

The damage is permanent. The label cannot be appealed or removed. The card stays AA forever.

Compare this to professional restoration costs, which sit in the low hundreds for most cards. The math always favours getting an expert opinion before attempting anything yourself.

What to do before submitting any card

Three steps before any PSA, BGS, or CGC submission:

1. Inspect the card under bright light with a 10x loupe or phone camera at maximum zoom. Look for surface contamination, edge wear, corner damage, and centering.

2. If anything looks treatable and the card is worth more than $200, get a professional assessment before submitting. The cost of an assessment is small compared to the cost of an AA designation.

3. If the card looks clean and presentable, submit it as-is. Don't try to "improve" a card that's already in good condition.

The cardinal rule: when in doubt, do nothing. AA designation is one of the few mistakes in this hobby that cannot be reversed.

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